Non Engine Parts
Engine Crane & Stand: Princess Auto - $270
Main Engine Components: priced at Import Performance Parts
This will be a 2 part build.
- First is to rebuild the head from the spare motor and attach to the existing bottom end to solve low compression problem and poor results from leakdown test (45%, 40%, 40%, 15% loss on leakdown, 120/90/90/120 compression at last test). Known bad head gasket. Unknown condition of rings - but head build will not be wasted due to ability to transplant onto new bottom end if needed. Head rebuild only is an effort to save some money in the short term for a long term build
- Second is to properly build and forge the spare bottom end, and transplant the rebuild head, or build the spare head, and swap the motor (more likely)
Part 1: Head Rebuild
- Gasket Set: TopLine CGSMA9M - $139. Includes gaskets for: Head, Valve Cover, Intake & Exhaust, Oil Pan, Viton Valve Stem Seals, and where applicable timing gasket and rear main seal. OR through MOSI: ~$300 + tax = JDM replacement stuff.
- Valve seals: TOGA TOGMA13-16HP - $59 - not needed if included in gasket set
- Valves & lifters: TopLine
- Intake Valve: IVMA9M - est $10 each = $80
- Exhaust Valuve: EVMA9T - $10 each = $80
- Lifter/Lash Adjuster (HLA): LIFMA13 - $10 each = $160
- Valve Springs: Ferrea or OEM - $20 ea = $320
- Cams: CORKSPORT Performance cam set (GTX) - $485 USD. Estimate OE cams $200/pair
- ARP or Mazda OE head bolts/studs: ~est $100
- 105A Alternator: Reich Racing - $300
- Water Pump: Bosch - $70
- Timing Belt TopLine TBMA9T - $23
Top End Parts Total: ~$1,800 excl labour, estimate + $400 for labour and machining.
** Possible areas to save: reuse cams if pitting/rust isn't bad. reuse valves if OK, reuse HLA if OK, reuse valve springs if OK.
** Will definitely be replaced, regardless of condition: all gaskets, valve seals
Parts acquired:
- Waterpump & timing belt $142
- JDM Gasket Set, including valve seals $381
- ARP head studs $200
Head rebuild complete to stock specs. Replaced valve seals and cam seals. Everything else was find. Cam was polished, HLAs were cleaned up and are all OK. Click Here to see pictures of the rebuilt head.
Part 2: Bottom End
- Rings: TOGA PMMA-102 - $89 || Moly rings
- Pistons: Flatlander PAMA9Z - $39 each = $160. || Likely .020 overbore, whatever is easy to find parts for.
- Rods: Pauter - ~$720 + $55/rod for pin oiling. Stock rods are good to 250whp - will have to do.
- Crankshaft kit: Topline - CSMA9T - $295.00. Kit includes Crankshaft, Main bearings, Rod bearings, and Thrush Washers.
- Oil Pump: new, but stock oil pump - est $200
- Freeze Plug Set TopLine EPSMA9 - $9
- Downpipe: Corksport - $249. Requires removal of Air Conditioning System to fit. Other options: full custom DP allowing AC to stay.
Other Parts to Replace
- Distributor Cap, Rotor, and especially springs!
- Wires & Plugs
- Block Heater
- Coil: Nology - $100
- Radiator: JC Whitney - $200, or other higher performance aluminum rad
Optional exhaust / turbo
- Upgraded turbo: Reich Racing - $899. Upgraded VJ-14 Turbo provides sufficient airflow for 220 HP.
- Custom tubular? exhaust manifold - $600
- Garret GT28-R turbo (Specs) - $1100. Or Garrett VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbine) -
- custom downpipe - $500
Stuff that will likely not get done
- Filter Relocation?
- Oil Cooler?
- Transmission Cooler?
- 1.5 Way Rear LSD: Mazdaspeed - $690
- 10lb Aluminum Flywheel: Corksport - $400
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Cosmetic Plans
- Polished valve cover, with Flat Black painted "DOHC" and "16 VALVE", or flat black painted valve cover with polished DOHC and 16 VALVE
- Flat Black painted heat shield over exhaust manifold, or thick stainless steel cover
- Flat Black painted aluminum anchors and bits all through the motor
- Black hose used for all vac lines, heater lines
- Intake manifold Flat Black, with raised "turbo" lettering (from 911 Carrera maybe?)
- Flat black painted head - or polished head?
Airflow / Heat control Considerations
- Ceramic coat exhaust manifold
- downpipe (custom or stock) ceramic coated. Likely AC removal
- Ceramic coated intake piping, at minimum from intercooler to throttle body
- mandrel bent 304 SS hard pipes, ceramic coated
- possible FMIC install, or upgraded SMIC (Ford Probe?) Corksport now offers upgraded SMIC
- Port and Polish intake manifold, exhaust manifold, turbo, throttle body, and head
- 3 angle valve job
Other Things to Consider
- oversized pistons to fit new bore
- Leave compression ratio as close to stock as possible
Engine Mechanical Plans / Build Order
Take pictures at every step, for rebuild. Label bolts, nuts, especially valves and bearings where they came from!
- Remove most steel and aluminum brackets. Either replace or sand down, spray paint flat black wherever possible
- Remove turbo. send out for larger trim wheel, new seals, etc. Port the wastegate, or remove/disable integral wastegate, with plans for external wastegate to be welded to exhaust manifold?
- Head Work - Machining
- Clean, blast and pressure test
- 3 angle valve job
- Remove and replace valve guides
- Surface head (Up to .040 off.)
- Adjust valves and shim as needed
- Refinish camshifts. If grinding is necessary, get new OE spec cams - hopefully not needed
- Port & polish head, exhaust manifold, turbo & wastegate, intake manifold, throttle body - port pockets, match all ports, minor blend of runners to maintain velocity and cut back & knife-edge dividers.
- Block Work
- Remove all galley & freeze plugs
- Hot tank, magnaflux, deburr, bore and hone with torque plate (up to .040 over.)
- Grind & balance crankshaft
- Polish connecting Rods
- Install upgraded rod bolts
- Fully Balance rotating assembly - Front pulley to flywheel. Dynamic balance of crank, rods, pistons, pulley and (lightened aluminum?) flywheel.
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The Plan
Take Photos every single step of the way.
Use/make a small dunk tank for smaller parts to clean them.
Outstanding Questions
- When does the rotating assembly get dynamically balanced?
- Is there benefit to ceramic coating the inside of the exhaust manifold? Are there any long term problems with this?
- Strip the motor and catalogue the parts. Clean everything with gas & oil as it come out, and bag or plastic wrap each item
- Send the block for hot tank, magnaflux, deburr, bore, and hone.
depending on results of magnaflux, either 1) Continue (assume block is OK), 2) Buy a new block, or 3) Scrap the project
- Order new exhaust manifold from Mazda (est $300 CDN). If it has the bridge, cut it out.
- Rebuild turbo, or consider larger turbo for increased power and later spool.
- Determine overbore necessary and have cylinders bored properly. Then pistons and rings can be ordered
- Try to find JDM Intake Manifold. If yes or no, send Head, IM, EM and turbo for porting, port matching, and polishing. Consider having EM ceramic coated on inside to prevent excessive heat from radiating into engine bay.
- Ceramic coat, chrome, powder coat, or paint (most likely) outside of block, head, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, valve cover... all major parts. Smaller parts can be done later.
- Order Pistons, Piston Pins, Piston Rings, Connecting Rods, and Clips, and new oil jets if available.
- Order Crankshaft, Main Bearings, Thrust Bearings
- INSTALL: Crankshaft, Pistons
...More to come...
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Completed and Actual Costs
Dec 2005 / Jan 2006: Purchased Spare Motor $500
Motor was bought down by DL in late July 2006. No rush, since rebuild wasn't anticipated to start for a year or two. However, compression numbers on the in-use motor of 120/90/90/120 mean that a rebuild may begin sooner.
Jan 2007: Head removed from spare motor. Taken to shop for stripping and magnafluxing. Once results are known, parts will be measured and new parts ordered where needed. $75 to strip the head, clean, and magnaflux.
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